Benin
Maize-paste pâte and red amiwo under peanut and okra sauces — in the birthplace of Vodun and fiery sodabi.
Benin builds its meals on maize paste and bold sauce. There's plain pâte, a soft cornmeal or yam dough, and its livelier cousin amiwo, the same paste cooked red with tomato, onion, palm oil and chilli. Around them go peanut mafé, slippery okra sauce, and poulet bicyclette — lean free-range 'bicycle chicken' grilled at the roadside — with aloko, fried ripe plantains, alongside.
Palm oil, chilli and fermented locust bean (afitin) are the pantry that ties it together, and kuli-kuli peanut sticks are the snack in every hand. This is the cradle of Vodun, and its fierce artisanal palm spirit, sodabi, is both a drink and a ritual offering. The north brings something else again: fried wagasi, the Fulani cow's-milk cheese. Bold, cheap, deeply West African eating.
- Pâte (corn
- cassava or yam paste staple)
- Amiwo (red maize paste in tomato sauce)
- Sauce arachide (peanut-butter stew)
- Poulet bicyclette (grilled free-range chicken)
- Aloko (fried ripe plantains)
- Wagasi (fried Fulani cheese)
- Sodabi (palm-wine spirit)