São Francisco Square — São Cristóvão's reason for its UNESCO listing, and the essential sight, is the Praça São Francisco — a wide, grassy colonial square framed by a harmonious ensemble of buildings: the whitewashed Baroque Church and Convent of São Francisco on one side, the old Provincial Palace, the mercy house, and low colonial houses around it, all serene and beautifully preserved. It's a textbook example of the open, Iberian-planned colonial square, and simply standing in it, taking in the proportions and the calm, is a quiet delight. Step into the church and its sacred-art museum for the region's colonial treasures.
**The old town and its churches** — Beyond the famous square, São Cristóvão is a modest, atmospheric old town to wander — cobbled streets of colonial houses climbing the hilltop, more Baroque churches (Nossa Senhora da Vitória, the Rosário dos Homens Pretos, the Carmo), old squares, and the everyday life of one of Brazil's oldest towns. It's small and quiet, easily seen on foot in a few hours, and refreshingly free of crowds. The upper town holds the grand monuments; the lower town runs toward the river.
**A living slice of old Sergipe** — Part of São Cristóvão's charm is its authenticity — this is a real, working small town in Brazil's smallest state, not a polished tourist showpiece, so you see genuine northeastern-interior life carrying on around the colonial stones: the market, the churches still in use, the local festivals (the town has a lively religious-and-folk calendar). For travellers who want the real, uncrowded Brazil and a sense of the colonial past woven into everyday life, it's a rewarding, honest place.
**Sergipe food and the coast** — São Cristóvão eats northeastern Brazilian, with a Sergipe accent and plenty of seafood given the nearby coast — moqueca and fish stews, crab (the region is known for caranguejo), carne de sol (sun-dried beef), tapioca and cuscuz (couscous), and cassava dishes, with cold beer and cachaça. And the town is close to the state capital Aracaju, a modern coastal city with good beaches, a lively seafront and excellent seafood — an easy trip. Eat the local specialties, and pair the historic town with a beach afternoon in Aracaju.