Burundi
Charcoal skewers and grilled plantains by Lake Tanganyika, washed down with banana beer drunk through a shared straw.
Evenings in Bujumbura smell of charcoal and grilling meat. The ritual is brochettes — skewers of beef or goat turned slowly over open coals and handed to you with whole plantains (ibitoke) blistered black at the edges, eaten with your fingers at a lakeside table as the sun drops into Lake Tanganyika.
The lake sets the rest of the table: mukeke and sangala, fried crisp or stewed, come straight from its waters. Around them sit the staples a Burundian grew up on — fried kidney beans (ibiharage), stiff cassava ubugali, cassava leaves mashed soft with palm oil. And beer is taken seriously here: a shared bottle of Primus, or up in the hills the cloudy home-brewed banana beer urwarwa, passed round a circle and drunk together through long reed straws. Come for the grill; stay for the company.
- Brochettes (grilled beef or goat skewers)
- Ibitoke (charcoal-grilled plantains)
- Ibiharage (fried kidney beans)
- Mukeke (Lake Tanganyika fish)
- Ubugali (cassava or maize porridge)
- Isombe (mashed cassava leaves)
- Urwarwa (banana beer)