One day
Start early in the old town before the crowds — the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Radovan portal, the bell-tower climb, the main square and loggia, and the marble lanes and palaces. Walk the Riva to Kamerlengo Fortress and climb its ramparts, have a Dalmatian seafood lunch in a konoba, then cross to Čiovo for an afternoon swim. Return for the lit old town and a waterfront dinner at dusk.