Havana

Havana is one of the last places on earth where a major capital city feels genuinely outside the global tourism monoculture — there is no Starbucks, no McDonald's (at time of writing), and very little that feels designed for international visitors in the way that every Mediterranean resort destination has been smoothed into familiar shapes. Old Havana's Baroque and Neoclassical squares (Plaza de Armas, Plaza Vieja, Plaza de la Catedral) are architecturally extraordinary; the Malecón at sunset with the old American cars cruising past is one of the great urban spectacles; and a night of live music in a Casa de la Trova — a traditional music venue — with rum, dancing and an audience of mixed Cubans and visitors is the kind of experience that doesn't exist elsewhere. Havana also has real historical depth: the Museo de la Revolución in the former Presidential Palace, the fortresses of Morro and Cabaña across the bay, and the Ernest Hemingway connections (La Floridita bar, Finca Vigía estate) are all genuinely interesting. This is not a comfortable, easy destination — but that is part of why it is so vivid.

Getting around Havana requires flexibility and patience. The most atmospheric option is the classic American car 'almendrones' (shared taxis running fixed routes) — flag one down on a main boulevard and pay a peso fare to travel with locals. Individual classic-car taxis (the convertibles seen in photographs) charge much higher dollar/CUP rates and are geared to tourists. Coco-taxis (three-wheeled yellow pods) are novelty-value tourist conveyances rather than practical transport. Bicitaxis (cycle rickshaws) are useful for short Old Havana distances. City buses (Habana Bus Tour open-top double-deckers on the tourist route, and the regular city Metrobus/guagua) cover most of the city. Walking is entirely practical within Old Havana and Centro Habana; the Malecón is a 7km coastal walk that many visitors do end-to-end. Havana's layout is logical — Habana Vieja (Old Havana), Centro Habana, Vedado (the more modern district with hotels and restaurants) and Miramar (embassies, upscale) are the main zones. No Uber or equivalent; no reliable street maps at tourist shops. Download offline maps before arrival.

Havana's public transport is complex and largely geared to residents rather than tourists. The Habana Bus Tour (T1 and T3 routes, open-top double-deckers in the tourist style) connects major sights — Habana Vieja, Vedado, Miramar — and is the easiest option for visitors; a 24-hour pass costs around $5 USD equivalent. The city's standard buses (guagua, operated by Metrobús) are crowded, poorly marked and require some local knowledge but are the cheapest way to travel. Almendrones (shared American car taxis) run fixed routes along the main boulevards for a peso fare — ask Cubans which one goes where. Individual taxis (classic American cars or Geely Chinese-made modern taxis) are metered or negotiated; always agree the fare before getting in. No Uber or Bolt equivalent operates. Walking is perfectly practical within Old Havana and along the Malecón; bicycles and bici-taxis serve shorter distances.

The Malecón at dusk — when families, couples, fishermen, teenagers and musicians all converge on the seawall — is the best free experience in Havana and one of the great urban evening rituals anywhere. The Cementerio de Cristóbal Colón in Vedado is a city within a city: an extraordinary 57-hectare 19th-century cemetery with monumental neoclassical tombs that doubles as an open-air sculpture park — almost no tourists ever go there. For the best live music, the Casa de la Música in Miramar (and the one in Centro Habana) puts on nightly salsa concerts with Cuban audiences and exceptional local bands; far better than the tourist-facing venues on Obispo. The morning at the Plaza de Armas second-hand book market — Cuba's literary culture in action — is a quiet, authentic pleasure. Sort out cash before you arrive: international bank cards often don't work in Cuban ATMs (US sanctions affect many international banking partners) — carry sufficient euro or sterling in cash.

Havana has a tropical climate divided into a dry season (November–April) and a rainy season (May–October). The dry season is overwhelmingly the best time to visit: temperatures of 20–28°C, low humidity, sunshine and very little rain. January and February can feel slightly cool in the evenings (15–18°C) by Caribbean standards. The rainy season brings daily afternoon downpours (usually brief but heavy), high humidity (85%+) and the Atlantic hurricane season (most active August–October) — Havana itself is relatively sheltered from direct hits but disruption is possible and travel insurance is essential. The Christmas–New Year period and the Havana Jazz Festival (January) are popular with visitors; book accommodation months ahead for these dates.

José Martí International Airport (HAV), Terminal 3, is the main international gateway for Havana, located 18km southwest of the city. Non-stop flights from Europe are available from Madrid (Iberia, Air Europa), Paris (Air France), Amsterdam (KLM), London Gatwick (Virgin Atlantic seasonal), Zurich (Edelweiss), and others. From the UK, the easiest option is typically a connection via Madrid, Paris or Amsterdam, or a charter flight. Most US citizens remain subject to travel restrictions (you must qualify under an OFAC licence category — tourism per se is not legal for Americans, though the rules shift). From the airport, metered taxis to Old Havana should cost around CUP 1,200–1,500 (dollar equivalent approximately $25–35 at time of writing, though Cuba's currency situation is complex and volatile — always confirm the current exchange situation before travelling). Ride-hail apps do not operate in Cuba; negotiate the fare before getting in a taxi or use the fixed-rate taxi queue at the terminal exit.