The neoclassical centre — Cienfuegos's elegance sets it apart from the rest of Cuba, and its heart is Parque José Martí, a grand, arcaded plaza ringed by white neoclassical buildings — the ornate Teatro Tomás Terry, the cathedral, the colonnaded government palaces — with a triumphal arch and monuments, and life spilling across it. Around it run orderly avenues and the arcaded Boulevard. Wander the plaza and the streets, step inside the beautiful old theatre, and enjoy the calm, graceful atmosphere of the "Pearl of the South." It's the essential Cienfuegos experience.
**Punta Gorda and the bay** — South of the centre, a long, narrow peninsula reaches into the bay — Punta Gorda, lined with old wooden and colonial mansions and cooled by the sea breeze, ending at the whimsical Palacio de Valle, an eccentric little palace of Moorish arches and turrets where a band plays and you can take a drink on the rooftop terrace at sunset. Walk or ride the mansion-lined streets, take a waterfront table, and watch the sun set over the wide Bay of Cienfuegos. It's the city's loveliest, breeziest corner.
**The bay, music and the outdoors** — The Bay of Cienfuegos is the city's setting and playground — take a boat trip out onto the water, visit the mansion-and-fort at its mouth, and explore the coast toward Rancho Luna beach and the Escambray foothills, with the El Nicho waterfalls and the Cienfuegos Botanical Garden nearby. And Cienfuegos has a strong musical heritage (the great Benny Moré hailed from the area), so live Cuban music fills the plazas and casas de la trova. Between the water and the music, the city has an easy, breezy rhythm.
**Cuban food and drink — with a caveat** — Cienfuegos eats Cuban — ropa vieja, roast pork, congrí (rice and beans), tostones and yuca, and, given the bay, more seafood than inland cities, best at the private paladares, with a mojito, rum or Cuban coffee. As across Cuba, be aware of the country's economic hardship and shortages: menus can be limited and supplies unpredictable, so the family-run paladares and casas particulares are the reliable, rewarding way to eat and stay. Enjoy the food and the warmth, and go with patience and cash.