Eritrea
Highland injera and fiery berbere stews on one plate; Italian espresso and pasta on the next — Asmara eats both.
Eritrea eats with a double identity. In the highlands the plate is injera, a wide, sour, spongy sheet of fermented teff, spread with fiery stews you scoop up by hand — zigni, beef simmered in the red-hot berbere spice blend and spiced butter; tsebhi derho, chicken and egg; shiro, chickpeas ground and stewed smooth for fasting days. It is shared cooking, everyone reaching into the same round.
Then there is the other Eritrea, left behind by Italy: proper espresso, cappuccino and pasta served in the Art Deco cafés of Asmara, taken as seriously as anywhere in Rome. Tying it all together is buna, the coffee ceremony — green beans roasted, ground and brewed in front of you over coals, poured in three rounds, unhurried. On the Massawa coast the food turns to grilled spiced fish and honeyed bread. Two culinary worlds, one small country.
- Injera (spongy fermented flatbread)
- Zigni (spicy berbere beef stew)
- Tsebhi derho (spiced chicken-and-egg stew)
- Shiro (spiced chickpea purée)
- Alicha (mild turmeric stew)
- Buna (coffee ceremony)
- Asmara Beer (state-brewed lager)