Ghana
The country that will fight you over jollof: smoky rice, pounded fufu and grilled tilapia with fire.
Mention jollof in Ghana and you've started something. This one-pot rice, simmered in a deep, smoky tomato-and-pepper sauce until every grain is stained red, is a point of fierce national pride, and the rivalry with Nigeria over whose is better is entirely serious. Order it with a piece of chicken and a fried plantain and judge for yourself.
Beyond it lies a whole world of 'swallow' foods — soft, stretchy staples you tear and dip into soup. Fufu, pounded cassava and plantain, goes into rich groundnut or fiery palm-nut soup; fermented banku and kenkey pair with grilled tilapia and a blistering pepper-and-onion shito. Snack on kelewele, plantain cubes fried with ginger and chilli, and waakye, rice and beans dyed deep with millet stalk, at a lunchtime stall. Cool it all with iced sobolo, spiced hibiscus. Loud, saucy, generous food — come with an appetite and no fear of heat.
- Jollof rice (spiced tomato rice)
- Waakye (rice and beans)
- Fufu (pounded cassava/plantain with soup)
- Banku (fermented corn dough)
- Kelewele (spiced fried plantain)
- Grilled tilapia & banku
- Sobolo (hibiscus drink)