Monaco

For all its glamour, Monaco's real food is humble and Ligurian at heart. The national dish is barbagiuan, crisp fried parcels stuffed with chard and ricotta, eaten on National Day; alongside it comes socca, a chickpea-flour pancake baked until charred and creamy, and stocafi, dried cod slow-simmered in tomato — cooking the Grimaldis' Genoese ancestors would recognise. The pantry is pure Mediterranean: olive oil, anchovies, chard, salt cod and whatever the boats bring in.

Two worlds share these two square kilometres. Up top sits one of the densest concentrations of Michelin stars on earth, anchored by Alain Ducasse at the Hôtel de Paris. Down at the Marché de la Condamine, counters like Chez Roger serve the same socca and barbagiuan cheaply to the people who actually live here. Skip the harbour tourist traps and eat where the locals queue.