Oman
Frankincense country: pit-roasted lamb, cardamom coffee and a coast that once traded all the way to Zanzibar.
The Omani feast worth waiting for is shuwa, and it takes a village. A whole lamb is marinated in spice paste, wrapped in banana or palm leaves and lowered into an underground pit to smoke for a day or more, then dug out for Eid and shared. What comes out is meltingly soft, faintly sweet with the earth it cooked in.
The everyday table is rice and fish: qabuli, the national plate of spiced rice with lamb and caramelised onion, and along the Batinah coast mashuai, whole spit-roasted kingfish over lemon rice. The old sea empire lingers in the pantry — cloves, cinnamon and Swahili threads from the Zanzibar days. Finish as Omanis do, with gelatinous rosewater halwa stirred over a flame and bitter kahwa scented with cardamom, a plate of dates never far away.
- Shuwa (pit-roasted spiced lamb)
- Qabuli (national spiced rice)
- Mashuai (spit-roasted kingfish)
- Mishkak (grilled meat skewers)
- Harees (wheat & meat porridge)
- Omani halwa (rosewater-saffron sweet)
- Kahwa (cardamom coffee)