One day
Start at the hilltop castle and the little São Miguel church where the first king was reputedly baptised, then tour the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza and see the "Aqui nasceu Portugal" wall. Walk down into the medieval old town — Largo da Oliveira, Praça de São Tiago, the Rua de Santa Maria — for a bacalhau or rojões lunch. In the afternoon, ride the cable car up Penha for the views and sanctuary, and return for a vinho verde and dinner on a square.