Madeira

Madeira has no metro or train network. The island is mountainous and public bus routes, while they do exist (operated by SAM and Rodoeste), are infrequent outside Funchal and impractical for reaching trailheads on a schedule. For a family, a hire car is strongly recommended and transforms the holiday. Roads are good (the expressway network is modern) though mountain roads to trailheads can be narrow and require careful driving. Hire cars are available at the airport from around ~£30–£50/day in shoulder season.

Within Funchal, the Horários do Funchal bus network covers the city and near suburbs effectively. The number 48 and number 103 are useful for reaching Monte and the hotel zone. Single fares are inexpensive; a day pass costs very little and is worth buying at the terminal on Avenida do Mar. Buses are air-conditioned and run reliably through the day, though become less frequent after 8pm.

Taxis in Funchal are cream-coloured and metered — reliable and not expensive by UK standards. Uber operates in Funchal and is often slightly cheaper than taxis for short journeys. For day trips to trailheads, some families negotiate a fixed-price hire with a local taxi driver for a full day — a sensible option if you do not want to drive mountain roads yourself. Expect to pay ~£60–£100 for a full-day private driver, depending on itinerary.

Funchal's Old Town, waterfront and hotel zone are all walkable, though the city is steep — the hills between the seafront and the cable car station will give you a workout. Comfortable shoes are essential. The city centre is entirely pedestrian-friendly and safe for families on foot day and evening.

Five to seven days is the ideal range for a family. Three days covers Funchal, Monte and a levada walk but feels rushed. A full week lets you combine south coast sightseeing, one or two serious levada trails in the UNESCO forest, a north coast day trip, a whale-watching trip and time to simply sit with a poncha and watch the sunset over Funchal Bay.

Genuinely, yes — and I say that as someone who has taken teenagers to many World Heritage Sites where the designation means more to the parents than the children. The laurisilva walks are physically engaging (torches required for the tunnel sections, uneven rocky paths, waterfall spray), visually unlike anything in Europe, and carry a credible wow-factor. The fact that this forest is 15 million years old and was once spread across Europe and North Africa lands differently when you are standing inside it than when you read it in a guidebook.

Not in the conventional sand-and-sunbeds sense on most of the island — Madeira is volcanic, so natural beaches are mostly black pebble or dark sand. The exception is Porto Santo island (45 minutes by ferry, or 15 minutes by plane) which has a stunning 9km golden beach. On Madeira itself, the natural volcanic rock pools at Porto Moniz and Seixal are spectacular alternatives — the sea fills the lava formations and creates calm, clear pools that are genuinely more interesting than most beaches I have swum at. Calheta has an artificial imported sand beach that works well for families.

For a family, yes — strongly recommended. The levada trailheads, the north coast pools, Cabo Girão, the central peaks and most of the island's best experiences are not reachable on a reasonable schedule without a car. Within Funchal itself you can manage on foot and bus, but you will miss most of what makes Madeira extraordinary if you do not venture out. Roads are well-maintained, though mountain routes to trailheads require confident driving on narrow switchbacks.

April to June and September to October are my preferred windows: the weather is settled and warm, the levada trails are in their best condition, school holiday surcharges do not apply and Funchal is busy but not overwhelmed. July and August work well but prices are higher, trails are crowded and the natural pools at Porto Moniz get very busy at weekends. The Christmas and New Year period (late December) is spectacular — the island is decorated lavishly and the New Year's Eve fireworks over Funchal are reputedly among the finest in Europe.

Most levada walks are suitable for children aged ten and upward who are comfortable with walking on uneven paths, though some sections pass very close to unfenced drops and require close adult supervision. The Levada das 25 Fontes (PR6) from Rabaçal is the most family-accessible of the major routes. The Levada do Caldeirão Verde (PR9) includes four narrow tunnels — torches are essential and small children may find them unsettling. Book a guided walk for your first levada if you are uncertain about route-finding; local guides know which sections are exposed and adjust for group capabilities.

Madeiran Portuguese is the local language, but English is very widely spoken across the island — in hotels, restaurants, tour operators and most shops. Staff at the major levada trailhead car parks and tourist sites routinely operate in English. Learning a few basic Portuguese phrases (obrigado/obrigada for thank you, por favor for please) is appreciated and will earn you warm smiles in village cafés.

The gateway for UK visitors is Madeira Airport (FNC), also called Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport, located on the east of the island near Santa Cruz. Direct flights from London operate year-round; typical fares from London Gatwick and Heathrow run ~£80–£200 return per person outside peak summer, with prices rising to ~£200–£350 in July–August school holidays. Easyjet, TAP Air Portugal, Jet2 and BA all operate the route. Regional carriers connect via Lisbon (TAP) if direct flights are full. Flight time from London is approximately 3 hours 20 minutes.

The airport is famous among pilots for its dramatic approach over the sea with a cliff at one end of the runway — extended by a remarkable concrete platform built on pillars over the water. The landing is perfectly safe; it just tends to be memorable. Airport to Funchal by taxi is around 20–25 minutes and costs roughly ~£15–£25 depending on traffic; an Aerobus (line 2) runs regularly and costs a fraction of that.

Portline and other operators run a car ferry between Portimão (mainland Portugal) and Funchal, but the crossing takes roughly 36–40 hours each way and is primarily used for vehicle transport — not a realistic option for a family holiday from the UK. Porto Santo (Madeira's smaller sister island, 45 minutes away by ferry) is worth a day trip or overnight for its famous 9km golden beach.