Puerto Rico
Plantains, pork and rice — cocina criolla at a Guavate roadside pig-roast.
Puerto Rican cooking, cocina criolla, runs on a trio you'll taste in almost everything: sofrito, adobo and annatto-tinted sazón. The dish most call national is arroz con gandules, rice with pigeon peas and pork, and its natural partner is lechón — whole pig slow-roasted for eight hours until the skin crackles. Head up to Guavate in the Cayey mountains, where the Ruta del Lechón is lined with lechoneras carving pork to order with machetes.
The plantain turns up in every guise — green and fried into tostones, mashed with garlic and crackling into a dome of mofongo, grated into alcapurria fritters at the beach kiosks of Piñones. It's rarely spicy; the heat comes from pique, the homemade vinegar-pepper sauce added at the table. Finish, especially at Christmas, with creamy coconut-rum coquito.
- Arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas)
- Mofongo (garlicky mashed plantain)
- Lechón asado (spit-roast pork)
- Pernil (roast pork shoulder)
- Tostones (fried green plantain)
- Alcapurrias (stuffed plantain fritters)
- Coquito (coconut-rum drink)