Sao Tome and Principe
Chocolate Islands cooking: fish, breadfruit and calulu under the equator, and cocoa from the old plantations.
On these two tiny equatorial islands the cooking is Creole — African roots, a Portuguese overlay, fish at almost every meal. The national dish is calulu, smoked or fresh fish slow-stewed with okra, greens and aubergine in red palm oil, served over rice or mashed breadfruit. That fish-and-breadfruit pairing, and fish with cooked banana, is as island as it gets.
But the real story is cocoa. São Tomé was briefly the world's largest producer, and its plantation estates — the roças — now run bean-to-bar chocolate tours and serve multi-course Creole menus in their old kitchens. Pick at stewed land snails (búzios), sip fresh palm wine or a Rosema beer, and finish, of course, with the island's own chocolate. Small, green and genuinely delicious.
- Calulu (smoked-fish and vegetable stew)
- Fish with breadfruit (fish and mashed breadfruit)
- Banana and fish (fish with cooked banana)
- Búzios (stewed land snails)
- Molho no fogo (fish-and-plantain hotpot)
- Cocoa / island chocolate
- Palm wine (vinho de palma)