Togo
Akoumé and pounded yam by hand, spicy okra and spinach sauces, fiery sodabi in the Vodun heartland.
Togo is a sliver of a country with a full plate. The staples are eaten by hand: akoumé, a smooth fermented corn-dough (also called pâte), and fufu, here pounded from white yam, both dipped into sauces that run from smoked-fish to fiery tomato to peanut. The signature pairings are gboma dessi, spinach stewed with goat, and slippery fetri dessi okra sauce.
Follow the smoke to koklo meme, chicken marinated and grilled whole at a roadside stall. This is a heartland of Vodun, and it shows in the drink: sodabi, a fierce artisanal palm liquor poured at ceremonies, and tchoukoutou, cloudy millet beer drunk from a calabash. Cool a hibiscus bissap against the heat. Small country, big, hand-eaten, spirit-soaked flavours.
- Akoumé (fermented corn-dough staple)
- Fufu (pounded yam swallow)
- Koklo meme (grilled marinated chicken)
- Gboma dessi (spinach and goat stew)
- Fetri dessi (slippery okra sauce)
- Sodabi (palm-wine liquor)
- Tchoukoutou (traditional millet beer)