Tonga
The 'umu earth oven and citrus-cured fish — Sunday-feast cooking in Polynesia's last kingdom.
Tongan cooking is built around the 'umu, an underground oven of hot stones where wrapped parcels of meat, fish and root crops cook slowly for hours — reaching its peak at the big family feast after Sunday church. Taro, yam, cassava and coconut form the starchy base of nearly every meal. The two national favourites lean on cheap imported cuts baked with taro leaves and coconut cream: lu pulu with corned beef, lu sipi with mutton flap. The fresh, bright counterpoint is 'ota ika, raw fish 'cooked' in citrus and coconut.
This is the last Polynesian kingdom, and it runs on its own rhythms. Kava, poured at nightly all-male faikava clubs, is central to social life. Sunday is a day of rest by law as much as custom — shops and restaurants shut, families gather round the 'umu. Time it for July to October and you can eat between swims with humpback whales.
- 'Ota ika (citrus-and-coconut raw fish)
- Lu pulu (corned beef in taro leaves)
- Lu sipi (mutton in taro leaves)
- 'Umu (earth-oven feast)
- Suckling pig (puaka)
- Feke (octopus in coconut cream)
- Faikakai (coconut-syrup dessert)