Trinidad and Tobago
Doubles on a morning street corner — the Caribbean's great Indo-African street-food island.
Breakfast in Trinidad is doubles, eaten standing at a corner stall: two soft fried bara flatbreads folded around curried chickpeas and dressed with cucumber, tamarind and fierce pepper sauce. It's the everyday emblem of a genuine Caribbean crossroads kitchen — Indo-Caribbean, Afro-Caribbean, Chinese, Amerindian and Middle Eastern folded into one Creole cuisine. Indentured labourers from India after 1845 brought the curry, roti and channa that make Trini street food unlike anywhere else in the region.
The flavour base is chadon beni and Scotch bonnet, in a 'green seasoning' rubbed into everything. The classic pilgrimage runs the north coast to Maracas Bay for bake and shark, fried shark in fried dough loaded with sauces; a beach 'lime' means a pot of pelau. This is also the home of Angostura bitters and steelpan — so Carnival season is a food season too, cold Carib in hand.
- Doubles (curried-chickpea flatbread snack)
- Bake and shark
- Roti (dhalpuri / buss-up-shut)
- Callaloo (dasheen-leaf soup)
- Pelau (browned rice with pigeon peas)
- Curry crab and dumplings
- Pholourie (fried split-pea balls)