Tunisia's animated capital — a labyrinthine medina beside the ruins of ancient Carthage and blue-and-white Sidi Bou Said.
Sunlight slanting into a covered souk hung with lanterns and carpets, the sea breaking over the tumbled columns of Carthage, and a mint tea on a blue-and-white terrace looking out over the gulf.
Tunis is North Africa at its most approachable — a walled medina of souks and mosques, a French-built avenue beside it, the ruins of ancient Carthage on the coast, and a blue-and-white clifftop village next door. It wraps a great deal of history and colour into an easy, welcoming capital on the Mediterranean.
Tunis sits at the head of a shallow lake off the Gulf of Tunis, on the North African coast. Its historic core is the walled medina, a UNESCO-listed maze of souks, mosques and merchants' houses; beside it the French colonial Ville Nouvelle laid out its grand tree-lined avenue. Out along the coast lie the scattered ruins of ancient Carthage and, on a cliff above them, the blue-and-white village of Sidi Bou Said. A light rail links the capital to these seaside suburbs. It is compact, sunny and easy to explore.
Tunis packs an unusual range into a small, friendly capital — a living medieval medina to get lost in, one of the world's finest collections of Roman mosaics, the romantic ruins of Carthage by the sea, and the postcard blue-and-white of Sidi Bou Said. It is warm, affordable and welcoming, an easy first step into North Africa or the Arab world, with the Mediterranean and a rich history right on the doorstep.
Getting lost in the medina — The walled old city is Tunis at its most alive — covered souks organised by trade, the perfume and spice sellers, the carpet and copper merchants, and the great Zitouna Mosque at its heart. Wander the lanes, haggle in good humour, and climb to a rooftop café or terrace for the view over the sea of tiled roofs and minarets. It is a gentler, less overwhelming medina than some, and easy to enjoy. **The mosaics of the Bardo** — The Bardo Museum holds one of the greatest collections of Roman mosaics on earth, gathered from across ancient Tunisia and displayed in a former palace — whole floors of intricate scenes, gods, hunts and daily life, astonishing in their colour and detail. It is a world-class museum and the single best way to grasp how rich the Roman province here once was. **Carthage by the sea** — Along the coast lie the ruins of Carthage — once Rome's great rival, razed and rebuilt, now a scatter of columns, baths and ports among the seaside villas. It is less monumental than some ancient sites but hauntingly set by the water, and the Byrsa Hill museum ties the Punic and Roman layers together. Reaching it by the little coastal train is half the pleasure. **Blue-and-white Sidi Bou Said** — On a cliff above Carthage sits Sidi Bou Said, a village of whitewashed houses with cobalt-blue doors and shutters, cobbled lanes climbing to café terraces over the gulf. It is deservedly popular and photogenic; come earlier or later in the day, take a mint tea on a terrace, and watch the light on the sea. It is the perfect end to a coastal day.
Tunis neighbourhood by neighbourhood — the character of each and who it suits.
The walled old city — a UNESCO-listed maze of covered souks, mosques, madrasas and merchants' houses, still a working market and the historic heart of Tunis.
The French colonial city beside the medina — the grand tree-lined avenue, the cafés and the everyday commerce of the modern capital.
The seaside suburb built among the scattered ruins of the ancient Punic and Roman city — leafy, upscale, and layered with two-thousand-year-old history by the water.
The clifftop village above Carthage — cobbled lanes of whitewashed houses with famous blue doors and shutters, cafés and craft shops, looking out over the gulf.
Tunisian food is Mediterranean and North African, spicier than its Moroccan neighbour, built around the fiery harissa chilli paste. The signature snack is the brik, a crisp fried pastry wrapped around egg and tuna; couscous is the great communal dish, and the Tunisian tajine is not the Moroccan stew but a baked egg-and-cheese frittata. Fresh Mediterranean fish, lablabi chickpea soup and ojja egg-and-sausage stew fill the tables, and mint tea with pine nuts finishes the meal. Tunisia also makes decent wine.
Vegetarians manage with brik (ask without tuna), lablabi, salads, couscous and vegetable dishes, though harissa and stock often carry fish or meat, so ask. Vegan is doable from the same base. Halal is the default across the city. Kosher food is very limited and best arranged ahead. Gluten-free is harder given the bread-and-couscous base; grilled fish and egg dishes help — confirm.
The Ville Nouvelle around the main avenue is the practical, comfortable base — hotels, cafés and transport, walkable to the medina. Staying in or beside the medina gives atmosphere in a restored dar guesthouse. Many visitors, though, base out at the coast — Sidi Bou Said or the beach suburbs of La Marsa and Gammarth — for the sea air and the views, taking the light rail into the capital. Tunis is affordable across the board.
Pan, zoom and compare live prices — every stay in one map.
The medina and the central avenue are walkable; the TGM light rail is the easy, scenic link out to Carthage, Sidi Bou Said and the coast, and a metro-tram (the Métro léger) and taxis cover the wider city. Agree taxi fares or use the meter. A car isn't needed for the main sights.
The medina and Ville Nouvelle are a short walk apart (~approx). Carthage and Sidi Bou Said are a ride out along the TGM coastal line; the beach suburbs are further along the same route.
Ready-made day plans for Tunis — from a single day to a long weekend.
Spend the morning in the medina — the souks, the Zitouna Mosque and a rooftop café — then head to the Bardo Museum for the Roman mosaics. In the afternoon take the light rail out along the coast to Carthage for the ruins by the sea, and end in Sidi Bou Said with mint tea on a blue-and-white terrace at sunset.
Give day two to the coast and the details. Explore Carthage's scattered sites more fully in the morning, wander Sidi Bou Said's lanes and galleries, and spend the afternoon at the beach suburbs of La Marsa or Gammarth before a seafront dinner, returning to the capital in the evening.
Skip-the-line tickets and small-group tours in Tunis — compare across our partners.
We're still curating hand-picked tickets and tours for Tunis. In the meantime, the map above and the nearby cities are a great place to start.
April to June and September to November — warm and clear, before and after the summer heat
What to expect — Warm and pleasant, the countryside green and flowering, the sea warming and the crowds light. One of the best times.
What's best — Ideal walking weather for the medina and Carthage, green surroundings, and warm-enough coastal days before the summer heat.
What to expect — Hot and dry, the medina airless at midday and the coast and beaches busy with locals and holidaymakers. Little rain, long bright days.
What's best — Warm swimming and beach days at the coast, late lively evenings, and the coastal breeze. Do the medina and ruins early and rest through the heat.
What to expect — Hot easing to warm, the sea still swimmable into November, and the crowds thinning. Comfortable, with the odd autumn storm.
What's best — The best all-round weather returning, warm days and swimmable sea, comfortable sightseeing, and the light golden on the coast.
What to expect — Mild but sometimes wet and cool, with short but often bright days, and a quiet, low-season city. Occasional Mediterranean storms.
What's best — Gentle temperatures, near-empty ruins and medina, low prices, and a warm-enough escape from the northern winter — pack for the odd shower.
Skip the aggressive souvenir stalls at the medina entrance → go deeper into the working souks where locals shop and prices are fairer.
Skip a taxi out to the coast → the little TGM light rail links Tunis, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said cheaply and scenically.
Skip the tourist-menu spots on the main avenue → eat brik and couscous in a medina or side-street place where locals do.
Skip only doing Sidi Bou Said at midday → go earlier or later for the light and fewer crowds on the blue lanes.
Sidi Bou Said and the Bardo are busiest midday; go early for the light and the calm.
Carthage's ruins are spread out and best given a half-day with the coastal train between the sites.
Dress modestly, especially in the medina and at the mosques — cover shoulders and knees, and note that non-Muslims may not enter the prayer halls of the Zitouna, though the courtyard is often open.
Ask before photographing people, and haggle in good humour in the souks.
Tunisia is relatively relaxed, but respectful dress and behaviour matter, especially at prayer times and during Ramadan.
Carry cash in dinar for the medina, taxis and tips; cards are for bigger venues only.
Agree taxi fares or insist on the meter, and change money at banks or official bureaux, not on the street.
The Ville Nouvelle avenue and its cafés hold the gentle evening scene; the coast at La Marsa and Gammarth has more bars and nightlife.
The medina quiets after dark — an atmospheric early-evening wander more than a night out.
A mint tea, a coastal dinner or a café on the avenue suits the city's easygoing evenings.
Tunis-Carthage Airport (TUN) lies just northeast of the city, a short taxi from the centre. There is little intercity rail into the capital, but the airport, buses and the coastal TGM light rail connect the city and its seaside suburbs.
Flights, airport transfers and car hire — search and compare without leaving the page.
Parking, holiday extras, and more — coming soon.
We're lining up parking, holiday extras and activities you'll be able to add to any trip from here.