Istanbul

The T1 tram (Kabataş to Bağcılar via Sultanahmet) is the most tourist-useful transit line — it passes through the historic peninsula, across the Galata Bridge and continues to the Bosphorus. The Metro (M-lines) covers longer cross-city routes and connects to the airport. All transit accepts the Istanbulkart.

Şehir Hatları and iDO ferries cross the Bosphorus regularly and cheaply from Eminönü and Karaköy piers to Üsküdar, Kadıköy and the Princes' Islands — one of the world's great short-water commutes. The standard crossing fare costs under £1 via Istanbulkart.

Taxis are plentiful but taxi scams are well-documented. Always ensure the meter is running before departure; refuse any offer of a 'fixed price' into the city. Use the iTaksi or BiTaksi apps to book with upfront fare estimates — significantly safer than hailing street taxis at tourist sites.

Sultanahmet (the historic peninsula) is largely walkable but the terrain is steep — the hills between the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and the Grand Bazaar require comfortable footwear. Traffic is heavy; always use pedestrian crossings.

Istanbul's road traffic is legendarily congested. Avoid taxis for cross-city journeys during peak hours (08:00–10:00 and 17:00–20:00) — tram, Metro and ferry will all be faster.

Four to five days allows the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace, Grand Bazaar, a Bosphorus ferry, the Spice Bazaar, Galata area and a half-day on the Asian side — without rushing. A week allows the Princes' Islands (day trip by ferry), the Archaeological Museum and deeper neighbourhood exploration.

For the vast majority of visitors, yes — Istanbul is a major tourism destination with well-developed visitor infrastructure and heavy security presence in the historic areas. The main documented risks are taxi scams and pickpocketing. Check current FCO or State Department advisories before travelling for the latest situation.

Yes — this is a firm rule rather than a suggestion. Shoulders and knees must be covered for both men and women. Women should bring or borrow a headscarf at the entrance. Shoes must be removed (bags are provided). At the Blue Mosque specifically, be aware of 'guides' offering assistance near the entrance who are running an unofficial paid service.

Significantly cheaper than comparable Western European cities. A mid-range restaurant meal costs approximately £10–20 per head; the Bosphorus ferry fare is under £1; accommodation for mid-range hotels is typically 30–50% cheaper than London or Paris equivalents.

Easily and highly recommended — the public ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy takes 25 minutes and costs a single metro fare via Istanbulkart. The Asian side (Kadıköy in particular) offers the best food neighbourhood and a completely different character from the tourist-facing European historic peninsula.

What to expect — Mild, changeable and often wet early on, drying and warming through May. The city's tulips come out in the parks and the crowds are still manageable before summer.

What's best — The most comfortable walking weather of the year, long light on the water, and the sights busy but not overwhelmed. Along with autumn, the sweet spot.

What to expect — Hot, humid and crowded, with the headline sights at their most packed and beds at their priciest. The heat sits heavy on the peninsula by midday.

What's best — Long evenings, the Bosphorus breeze on a ferry, rooftop bars and late waterfront dinners. If crowds and heat wear on you, aim for June's start or September instead.

What to expect — Warm easing to cool, the summer crush gone, and generally clear days into October before the rains return. The most reliable stretch for ferry weather.

What's best — Comfortable sightseeing, softer light for the skyline, thinner queues and lower prices than peak summer. The best all-round time to come.

What to expect — Cold, grey and wet, with real wind off the water and the occasional snowfall that briefly turns the domes white. Short days, but the sights stay open and quiet.

What's best — The lowest prices and smallest crowds of the year, steamy tea gardens and hammams, and the rare magic of snow settling on the old city. Pack for rain and wind.

Skip the "sunset dinner cruise" hawked near the piers → take an ordinary scheduled Bosphorus ferry across to Kadıköy for the same view at a fraction of the price.

Skip the tourist-priced restaurants ringing Sultanahmet Square → cross to Beyoğlu's meyhanes or the Kadıköy market for far better food.

Skip paying a rooftop-bar cover for the skyline → climb the Süleymaniye Mosque terrace for the same view, free and less crowded.

Skip the first carpet shop a friendly "student" walks you to → browse the Grand Bazaar yourself and buy only where you set out to.

The old-city sights (Hagia Sophia, Topkapı, the Basilica Cistern) fill with tour groups from mid-morning; go at opening or late afternoon, and book timed tickets ahead where you can.

Mosques close to visitors during the five daily prayers and especially around Friday midday prayers (~approx noon to mid-afternoon) — plan around them rather than turning up cold, and note the exact windows shift with the season.

Ortaköy and the bazaars are calmest on weekday mornings and a crush on weekend afternoons.

To enter any working mosque, dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered for everyone, and women cover their hair with a scarf. Shoes come off at the carpet — carry them in the bag provided or leave them on the racks. Bring your own scarf or borrow one at the door.

Keep quiet inside mosques, don't photograph people praying, and don't walk in front of someone at prayer.

Bargaining is expected in the bazaars and shops but not in supermarkets or fixed-price cafés; stay friendly and be ready to walk away.

Be wary of the over-friendly stranger who wants to take you to "his cousin's shop" or a bar — the drink-spiking and inflated-bill bar scam is real.

Pay and think in Turkish lira, not euros or dollars; if a card machine offers to bill you in your home currency, decline it and pay in lira.

Use bank ATMs over the free-standing tourist ones in Sultanahmet and around İstiklal, which carry poor rates and fees.

Beyoğlu is the mainstream night out — İstiklal's bars, the Nevizade meyhanes and live-music cellars, running late.

Kadıköy on the Asian side is the local, scruffier alternative, all cheap bars and students around Kadife Sokak.

Sultanahmet goes quiet and residential after the sights close; Ortaköy and the Bosphorus shore are for a gentler waterfront evening.

Overall safety

Istanbul is generally safe for tourists with standard urban precautions. The city is well-policed in tourist areas and violent crime against visitors is uncommon. The primary risks are city-specific and largely avoidable.

Taxi scams

Taxi overcharging is the most documented tourist problem in Istanbul. Tactics include 'broken' meters, route manipulation and offering a high 'fixed price' from airports and tourist sites. Always ensure the meter runs from the start; use the iTaksi or BiTaksi apps for upfront pricing and trip tracking. Keep small denomination lira for payment.

Bazaar & tourist area scams

Aggressive touting in the Grand Bazaar (carpet shops, jewellery stores) and Spice Bazaar is standard — a confident 'hayır teşekkürler' (no thank you) and walking on is the correct response. Do not follow strangers who 'just want to practice English' or offer hospitality — a known social-engineering approach.

Pickpocketing

Pickpocketing operates in the Grand Bazaar, along Istiklal Avenue (Taksim) and at major tourist sites. Use a crossbody bag, keep phones in inner pockets and stay aware in crowded transit.

Travel advice

Check current FCO (UK) or State Department (US) travel advisories before departure — the situation around major public gatherings and political events can change. For most tourists on most visits, Istanbul is an entirely manageable destination.

Mosques

Istanbul has many active mosques that welcome non-Muslim visitors outside prayer times. Dress code is mandatory: shoulders and knees covered for both men and women; women should carry a headscarf (usually available to borrow at major mosques). Remove shoes before entering — place them in the bag provided. Be quiet and respectful; avoid visiting during the five daily prayer times (20–30 minutes when the mosque closes to visitors).

Tipping

Tipping is appreciated and expected in tourist-facing establishments. A 10–15% tip at restaurants and cafés is the norm; round up taxi fares. In the Grand Bazaar and markets: bargaining is expected and prices are typically opened at two to three times the realistic final price — beginning at 50–60% of the asking price and negotiating is entirely normal. In regular restaurants and shops, prices are fixed.

Bargaining

Bargaining is appropriate and expected in the Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar and souvenir markets — but not in regular shops, restaurants or with taxi meters. Entering a serious negotiation and then not buying is considered bad form; if you start bargaining with intention to buy, see it through.

Ramadan & greetings

Istanbul is a Muslim-majority city. During Ramadan, eating and drinking openly in conservative neighbourhoods during daylight hours draws less comfortable looks — tourist areas and restaurants remain open and functioning throughout. 'Merhaba' (hello) and a few Turkish words are warmly received anywhere in the city.

£75/day mid-range (budget £35, luxury £200+)

112 (all emergencies), 155 (police), 110 (fire), 112 (ambulance)

Istanbul Airport (IST) on the European side is Turkey's main international hub — served by Turkish Airlines, most major European carriers and Gulf airlines. Direct flights from London take approximately 3h45; from New York approximately 10 hours. The Havaist airport bus connects IST to Taksim Square in 45–75 minutes depending on traffic (buy tickets at the terminal bus stop). A Metro connection to the city is under construction. Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW) on the Asian side serves Ryanair, easyJet and other budget carriers; buses and Metro connections to the European centre take 60–90 minutes.

Istanbul is connected to the European rail network via Sofia (Bulgaria) and Bucharest — slow but scenic routes requiring multiple connections. The new Bosphorus tunnel (Marmaray line) now links the European and Asian rail networks under the strait. High-speed rail connects Istanbul to Ankara in approximately 4 hours.