Badlands National Park

Badlands National Park is a place that looks like the Earth turned inside out. Across the mixed-grass prairie of South Dakota, a wall of jagged buttes, spires and deeply eroded gullies rises in bands of ochre, rose, grey and gold, sculpted by rain and wind cutting into soft, layered rock. The Lakota called it mako sica, 'land bad', and early French trappers agreed; it is hard country, but hauntingly beautiful.

A fossil bed hiding in plain sight

Those colourful stripes are millions of years of sediment, and locked within them is one of the richest mammal fossil beds on Earth, from ancient horses and rhino-like creatures to sabre-toothed cats. The badlands are eroding fast in geological terms, which keeps unearthing new fossils. Beyond the rock, the park protects a swathe of native prairie where bison roam, bighorn sheep pick along the ridges, prairie dogs bustle, and the endangered black-footed ferret was reintroduced. For a UK family, the combination of surreal geology, big-sky prairie and genuinely wild American animals makes Badlands feel like stepping into a Western, one where the landscape itself is the leading character.

Badlands is a park of light and space, best felt at dawn and dusk when the low sun sets the striped rock ablaze and the prairie stretches unbroken to the horizon. You drive the Badlands Loop Road with the family pointing at bighorn sheep on the crags, walk the boardwalk trails among the spires, and let the kids scramble on the Notch Trail's log ladder. Because there are so few trees and so little light pollution, the night sky is staggering; ranger stargazing programmes turn the Milky Way into an event. There is a wildness here that feels genuinely untamed: bison the size of small cars, the yip of prairie dogs, and the sense that you have the whole vast place almost to yourselves. It gets under your skin.

The main artery is the Badlands Loop Road (Highway 240), a paved scenic route that winds along the eroded wall with numerous overlooks and short trailheads; you can drive its length in under an hour but should allow far longer to stop and explore. For wildlife, the unpaved Sage Creek Rim Road heads into the more remote western reaches, where bison and prairie dogs are common. There is no shuttle system, so a hire car is essential. Distances between overlooks are short, and most of the park's highlights sit close to the loop road. Some unpaved roads become impassable when wet, so check conditions after rain. Fuel up outside the park, as services inside are minimal, and drive cautiously, as wildlife frequently crosses the roads.

There is no public transport to or within Badlands National Park. Some guided tours run from Rapid City, but for a family of five a hire car is by far the most practical and flexible option, allowing you to catch the best light, follow the wildlife roads and combine the Badlands with the Black Hills. Plan to drive yourselves, use Rapid City as your base, and treat the region as a classic American road trip. There is no realistic transit-only way to experience this park.

• Drive the Badlands Loop Road at sunrise or sunset for the best colour and the most active wildlife.
• The Notch Trail features a wooden log ladder and a dramatic canyon-edge finish, a favourite with teens.
• Sage Creek Rim Road (unpaved) is the best place to spot bison and prairie dogs; drive slowly.
• Stargazing is exceptional, so stay after dark and check for ranger-led night sky programmes.
• There is very little shade, so bring sun protection, hats and plenty of water.
• Combine your visit with nearby Wall Drug and Mount Rushmore for a fuller South Dakota trip.
• Never approach bison; they are fast and dangerous despite looking placid.

The Badlands have an extreme continental climate. Summers are hot, often exceeding comfortable levels by midday, with strong sun and little shade, plus the risk of violent afternoon thunderstorms. Spring and autumn are the sweet spots, with pleasant days and cool nights. Winters are bitterly cold, windy and occasionally snowbound. The wind is a near-constant companion. Pack layers, sun protection, sturdy shoes for uneven terrain and plenty of water. A windproof jacket is wise in any season, and always check the forecast for storms before heading onto exposed trails.

The gateway is Rapid City Regional Airport (RAP), roughly an hour's drive from the park's northeast entrance. From the UK, you will fly into Rapid City via one or two connections, typically through a hub like Denver, Chicago or Minneapolis. Once you land, hiring a car is essential; the park and the wider Black Hills region simply cannot be explored any other way. Rapid City makes a sensible base, with good hotels, restaurants and supplies, and it puts you within easy reach of Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park and Wall Drug as well as the Badlands themselves. The drive from the city to the park is straightforward on good roads. For a UK family, this corner of South Dakota rewards a road-trip mindset, so plan to string several nearby attractions together rather than treating the Badlands as a standalone stop.