Denali National Park & Preserve

Denali is Alaska distilled: six million acres of subarctic wilderness gathered around the highest mountain in North America, the 20,310-foot peak that gives the park its name. This is a landscape of tundra and taiga, braided glacial rivers and vast open valleys, roamed by grizzly bears, wolves, caribou, moose and Dall sheep, the so-called Big Five that draw wildlife-watchers from across the world. There are almost no trails and only one road, and that is very much the point.

One road into the wild

A single ribbon of gravel, the Denali Park Road, runs deep into the park, and for most of its length private cars are not allowed; instead, visitors travel by a park bus system that lets you spot wildlife from the window and hop off to explore. The mountain itself is famously shy, often wrapped in cloud, so glimpsing its full, glacier-clad bulk feels like a genuine event. For a UK family, Denali offers a scale of untamed wilderness that simply does not exist in Britain.

Denali is where a family goes to feel the true size of the wild. There are no manicured viewpoints or tidy paths; instead there is tundra rolling to the horizon, a single road disappearing into the mountains, and the electric possibility that a grizzly or a wolf might appear around the next bend. Watching the landscape scroll past the bus window, everyone scanning for movement, is quietly thrilling.

And then there is the mountain. Denali hides in cloud far more often than it reveals itself, so when the sky clears and that immense, snow-plastered peak finally stands out against the blue, it is a moment nobody forgets. Add the long subarctic daylight of summer, the chance of the northern lights at the shoulder seasons, and genuine solitude, and you have a place that recalibrates what teenagers think nature can be.

Denali is unusual because you cannot simply drive through it. The single Denali Park Road runs deep into the wilderness, but private vehicles are only allowed along a short initial stretch; beyond that, everyone travels on the park's bus system, whether narrated tour buses or hop-on, hop-off transit buses. This protects the wildlife and the wild character of the place. To go deep into the park and see the best of it, you book a bus and spend much of the day aboard, watching for animals and getting off to walk where you like. Note that landslides have in recent years affected access along the road, so the full length may not be reachable; always check current conditions before planning. Near the entrance, a free shuttle links the visitor facilities.

Uniquely among these parks, Denali's interior is served by an organised bus system rather than private cars, and that is how you explore the wilderness itself. To reach the park from Anchorage or Fairbanks, the Alaska Railroad offers a genuinely scenic and comfortable option that many families enjoy. For getting to the park entrance and moving around the surrounding area, though, a hire car still gives a family of five the most flexibility. In short: use the train or a car to reach Denali, then rely on the park buses to travel into the wild interior, since driving yourself deep into the park is not permitted.

• Book the park buses and any campground or lodge stays as far ahead as you can; capacity is limited and demand is high in the short summer.
• Take a full-day bus deep into the park rather than just a short trip; the further in you go, the better the wildlife and scenery.
• Manage expectations about the mountain; it is often shrouded in cloud, so treat a clear view as a wonderful bonus.
• The park road is sometimes affected by landslides and may not be drivable to its full length; check current conditions before you plan.
• Bring binoculars for everyone; wildlife is often distant on the open tundra.
• Pack for cold, wind and rain even in summer, plus insect repellent for mosquitoes.
• Allow generous travel time; Denali is remote and days are long.

Denali's subarctic climate is cool, changeable and often wet, even in summer. The main visitor season of June to August brings long daylight hours, mild days that can still turn cold, frequent rain and, at times, warm spells; nights are chilly. The shoulder months of May and September are colder, with the chance of snow and, as darkness returns, the northern lights. Winters are long, dark and bitterly cold. Whenever you visit in season, pack warm, waterproof layers, a hat and gloves, sturdy boots and effective insect repellent for the summer mosquitoes. Weather can shift quickly, so always be prepared for cold and rain.

Reaching Denali from the UK is a two-stage journey. You fly first to Anchorage (ANC) or Fairbanks (FAI), typically via a US west coast hub such as Seattle, and then travel on to the park by road or the scenic Alaska Railroad. From Fairbanks the drive is around 2.5 hours; from Anchorage it is a longer four to five hours, though the train from either city is a memorable experience in itself. Given the distance and remoteness, allow plenty of buffer time and expect a long travel day at each end. A hire car gives flexibility for reaching the park entrance and exploring the surrounding area, though once inside the park you switch to the bus system. Plan this as a proper expedition rather than a quick side-trip.