Everglades National Park

The Everglades is like nowhere else on Earth: a vast, slow-moving sheet of shallow water, often called the River of Grass, that creeps almost imperceptibly across the southern tip of Florida toward the sea. It is not a swamp but a unique subtropical wetland ecosystem, a mosaic of sawgrass marshes, mangrove forests, pine woodland and cypress domes, and it is the only place on the planet where alligators and crocodiles coexist.

A living river of grass

This is one of the great wildlife spectacles of North America. Alligators bask along the trails, wading birds stalk the shallows in their thousands, and elusive creatures such as manatees and the endangered Florida panther move through the wilderness. Recognised internationally for its ecological importance, the park is a refuge under pressure, its survival tied to the delicate flow of water through the region. For a UK family raised on nature documentaries, walking a boardwalk with wild alligators just below and roseate spoonbills overhead is the real thing, up close and utterly memorable.

The Everglades delivers wildlife encounters that feel almost impossibly rich. Within minutes of setting off along the Anhinga Trail you are likely to be looking at wild alligators lounging metres away, herons spearing fish, turtles sunning themselves and birds in every direction. For teenagers weaned on wildlife films, seeing it all unfold for real, without a fence in sight, is genuinely electrifying.

Beyond the headline reptiles, the park works a subtler magic: the enormous, flat, luminous landscape of sawgrass stretching to the horizon, the eerie beauty of the mangrove tunnels, the blaze of a subtropical sunset, and a birdlife so abundant it can stop you in your tracks. Whether you walk the boardwalks, paddle a kayak through the mangroves or take a boat into Florida Bay, the Everglades leaves you feeling you have seen wild Florida as it was meant to be.

Getting around the Everglades means driving, as the park is large and its main areas are far apart, linked by long park roads rather than any shuttle system. The principal route runs from the Homestead entrance down to Flamingo on Florida Bay, passing trailheads, boardwalks and viewpoints along the way; other entrances, such as Shark Valley and the Gulf Coast, are reached separately and can be an hour or more apart by road. You will need a hire car throughout. Within each area you explore on foot along boardwalks and short trails, by bicycle at Shark Valley, or by kayak and boat tour in the mangroves and bay. Distances add up, so pick one or two areas per day rather than trying to cover everything.

Public transport to and within the Everglades is very limited and not a realistic way for a family to visit. No regular buses serve the main entrances, and the park's scattered access points lie far apart across southern Florida. For a family of five, a hire car is essential, giving you the reach to get from your Miami, Fort Lauderdale or Naples base to the park and to move between its distant entrances and trailheads. It also lets you time your visits for dawn and dusk when wildlife is most active. Collect a car at the airport and plan to drive; there is no practical alternative here.

• Visit in the dry season, roughly late autumn to early spring, when wildlife concentrates around remaining water and mosquitoes are far fewer.
• The Anhinga Trail near the main entrance is the single best short walk for guaranteed close-up alligators and birds.
• Note that airboats operate outside the national park boundary, not within it; inside, choose kayaks, canoes or ranger boat tours.
• Bring serious insect repellent, especially outside the driest months, as mosquitoes can be relentless.
• The park has several distinct entrances far apart, so plan which area you want and don't expect to see them all in a day.
• Sunrise and dusk are the best times for wildlife activity and cooler temperatures.
• Carry water, sun protection and a hat, as shade is limited.

The Everglades has two seasons rather than four. The dry season, roughly December to April, brings warm, pleasant days, lower humidity, fewer mosquitoes and the best wildlife viewing as animals gather around shrinking pools; this is the prime time to visit. The wet season, from about May to November, is hot, humid and stormy, with frequent afternoon downpours, swarms of mosquitoes and the regional hurricane risk. Pack light, breathable clothing, a hat, sunglasses, high-factor sun cream and strong insect repellent whatever the season, plus a rain layer. Sturdy, water-tolerant shoes are useful for damp boardwalks and trails.

The Everglades is easily reached from several major Florida airports, all served from the UK by direct or one-stop flights. Miami International (MIA) is the most convenient for the main eastern entrances near Homestead, roughly an hour's drive; Fort Lauderdale (FLL) is a little further, and Naples (APF) or Fort Myers suit the park's western Gulf Coast side. From whichever airport you choose, hire a car for the drive to your chosen entrance. Because the park spreads across the bottom of Florida with widely separated access points, it pairs naturally with a broader Florida trip taking in Miami, the Keys or the Gulf Coast. A car is essential, both to reach the park and to move between its scattered entrances.