Grand Canyon National Park

Some places are so famous that you fear they cannot possibly live up to the pictures. The Grand Canyon is not one of them. Standing at the South Rim for the first time, watching the earth simply fall away for a mile beneath your feet and stretch ten miles to the far side, is a moment that silences even the most jaded teenager. Carved by the Colorado River over millions of years, it exposes nearly two billion years of the planet's history in bands of rose, ochre and violet rock.

A view that changes by the hour

The South Rim is the main event, open all year, lined with viewpoints, trails and lodges. The higher, cooler North Rim is quieter and seasonal, open only in the warmer months. Between them lies the canyon itself, where the Bright Angel Trail switchbacks down toward the river and mule trains still carry supplies to the bottom. The light here is never still; sunrise and sunset set the whole gorge ablaze. For a UK family, the Grand Canyon offers a scale of landscape that Britain has nothing to compare with, and a view you will talk about for years.

You come to the Grand Canyon to witness one of the true wonders of the natural world and to feel properly, thrillingly small. No photograph prepares you for the depth of it; the moment the canyon opens up in front of you is one every family should have once. Teenagers glued to their phones tend to forget them entirely at the rim's edge, especially at sunrise when the light pours down the layers of rock. You can make it as gentle or as adventurous as you like: an easy stroll along the paved Rim Trail, a hike a short way down the Bright Angel for a taste of the descent, or simply a picnic while the colours shift. For a family flying in from London, it is the definitive American landscape, unmissable and unforgettable.

At the South Rim, an excellent free shuttle bus network is the easiest way to get around, especially in the busy summer months when the scenic Hermit Road is closed to private vehicles. Colour-coded routes link the visitor centre, village, viewpoints and trailheads, so you can leave the car parked and hop on and off. Driving remains useful for reaching Desert View to the east and for arriving and departing. The North Rim, a completely separate part of the park reached by a long drive around, is seasonal and typically closed by snow from late autumn to late spring. Distances within the park are modest, but note that crossing from South Rim to North Rim by road is a five-hour drive despite them being just ten miles apart across the gorge.

The Grand Canyon is unusually car-optional at the South Rim thanks to its free shuttle network and the historic Grand Canyon Railway, which runs from the town of Williams straight to the rim. Once there, the shuttles cover the village and viewpoints without any need to drive. Getting to the region, however, still generally means a hire car or an organised coach tour from Las Vegas, Phoenix or Flagstaff. For a UK family, the neatest low-driving option is the train to the South Rim combined with the in-park shuttles; otherwise a hire car gives maximum flexibility across the wider Southwest.

• Catch sunrise or sunset at the rim; midday light flattens the canyon, while the low sun sets the layers glowing.
• Use the free shuttle buses on the South Rim; the Hermit Road viewpoints are closed to private cars in peak season anyway.
• If you hike down the Bright Angel, remember the hard part comes on the way back up; turn around with plenty of energy to spare.
• Carry far more water than you think you need; the dry heat is deceptive and dehydration is the main risk.
• The quieter, cooler North Rim is a wonderful alternative if visiting in summer, but check its seasonal opening dates.
• Book South Rim lodges months ahead; day-trippers should arrive early to beat the crowds and heat.
• Desert View Watchtower at the east end is well worth the drive and far less busy.

The Grand Canyon's weather varies hugely with elevation and season. The South Rim sits high at around 2,100m, so summer days are warm but nights cool, while winters bring snow and freezing temperatures to the rim even as the canyon floor stays hot. Summer (June to August) is fierce down in the canyon, often well above 40C, making midday hikes dangerous; spring and autumn are far kinder. Pack layers year-round: sun hat, sunglasses, high-factor sun cream and plenty of water for the heat, plus a warm fleece and waterproof for cold rim mornings and sudden afternoon thunderstorms in late summer.

The Grand Canyon's South Rim is remote but well-served by several gateway cities. From the UK there are no direct flights, so most families fly into a hub such as Phoenix, Las Vegas or Los Angeles. Phoenix Sky Harbor (PHX) is about 3.5 hours' drive south of the South Rim; Las Vegas (LAS) is roughly 4.5 hours and popular as a combined trip with the wider Southwest; and the small Flagstaff airport (FLG) is closest at around 1.5 hours, though it needs a connection. A hire car is the standard approach and gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace, though the historic Grand Canyon Railway from Williams is a characterful car-free alternative to the South Rim. Many UK families fold the canyon into a Southwest loop taking in Las Vegas, Zion, Bryce and Monument Valley.