Guadalupe Mountains National Park

Guadalupe Mountains is one of Texas's best-kept secrets, a rugged desert range rising abruptly from the flat West Texas plains near the New Mexico border. Its centrepiece, Guadalupe Peak, is the highest point in the entire state at 2,667m, and the range's sheer face, El Capitan, has been a landmark for travellers for centuries. This is a remote, uncrowded park for those who love wild, empty country and the reward of a hard-earned summit.

An ancient reef in the desert

Astonishingly, these mountains are the fossilised remains of a vast marine reef, formed some 250 million years ago when a shallow sea covered the region; hikers today walk over rock studded with ancient sea creatures, high above the desert. Tucked within the range, McKittrick Canyon hides a rare oasis of maples, oaks and walnuts that blaze with unexpected autumn colour, a startling splash of red and gold in the arid landscape. Wildlife includes mule deer, elk and the occasional mountain lion. For a UK family with older, active teens who like a proper hike, Guadalupe offers solitude, big skies and a genuine sense of the frontier.

You come to Guadalupe Mountains for wide-open solitude, a summit that tops the whole of Texas, and the strange wonder of walking on an ancient sea reef in the middle of the desert. This is a park for active families who prefer a challenge to a car park; the climb to Guadalupe Peak is demanding but hugely rewarding, and teenagers who reach the top earn bragging rights over the highest point in Texas. In autumn, the hidden maples of McKittrick Canyon put on a colour display no one expects in the desert, well worth the walk in. It is remote and quiet, with none of the crowds of the marquee parks, and the night skies are gloriously dark. For a UK family seeking real wilderness off the tourist trail, Guadalupe delivers big.

Guadalupe Mountains is a hiking park, not a driving one, with no scenic loop road and no shuttles. A single main highway runs past the range, giving access to the two main hubs: Pine Springs, home to the visitor centre and the trailhead for Guadalupe Peak and El Capitan, and the separate McKittrick Canyon entrance a short drive north, which has its own gate hours. From these trailheads, everything is on foot, and the trails are rugged, steep and exposed. Your hire car simply gets you between the entrances and the campgrounds; the real exploration happens on the mountain. Distances by road are modest, but note that McKittrick Canyon's gate closes in the evening, so time your visit accordingly. Always carry water, as there is none on the trails.

There is no public transport to or within Guadalupe Mountains, so a hire car is essential. No buses, shuttles or trains serve this isolated part of West Texas, and the park lies far from any town. For a UK family, the only realistic approach is to fly into El Paso, hire a car and drive around 2 hours east to the park, ideally combining it with Carlsbad Caverns just over the New Mexico border. Once at the park, you drive between the two trailhead areas and then continue entirely on foot, so no further transport is needed.

• The Guadalupe Peak trail is strenuous and long; start at dawn, carry ample water and turn back if the weather changes, as high winds are common.
• Time a visit to McKittrick Canyon for late October or early November to catch the surprising autumn colour.
• There is very little shade and no water on the trails; carry far more water than feels necessary in the dry heat.
• Fuel up and buy supplies before arriving; the park is remote with minimal services nearby.
• Winds here can be ferocious, especially in spring; check forecasts and secure loose gear.
• Combine with Carlsbad Caverns just over the border in New Mexico, an easy and spectacular add-on.
• The night skies are superb for stargazing thanks to the park's isolation.

Guadalupe Mountains has a high-desert climate defined by dry heat, big temperature swings and notorious wind. Summers (June to August) are hot, with exposed trails becoming dangerously baking by midday; hike early and carry plenty of water. Spring brings pleasant temperatures but famously fierce winds that can make ridge hiking hazardous. Autumn is the sweet spot, cooler and calmer, and the time for McKittrick Canyon's colour. Winters are cold with occasional snow at height. Whatever the season, pack layers for the wide day-night range, a windproof jacket, sturdy hiking boots, sun protection and far more water than you expect to need, as there is no shade and no water on the trails.

Guadalupe Mountains is genuinely remote, which keeps it wonderfully quiet. The nearest airport of any size is El Paso (ELP) in far West Texas, about 2 hours' drive west, reachable from the UK via a single hub connection through somewhere like Dallas or Houston. A hire car is essential; the park sits on a lonely stretch of highway with no public transport, and services along the way are sparse, so fuel up and stock provisions in El Paso or the small town of Carlsbad before the final leg. The drive across the empty desert plains is stark and beautiful. The great advantage of this corner is that Carlsbad Caverns National Park, with its extraordinary underground chambers, lies just over the New Mexico border, so most UK families visit the two together in one remote, rewarding trip.