Oaxaca

The Historic Centre of Oaxaca is extremely walkable — most colonial-era sights, the two main markets, the zócalo, the Santo Domingo complex and the Ethnobotanical Garden are within a 15-minute walk of each other on flat or gently sloping ground. Many of the most enjoyable streets in Oaxaca are pedestrianised or very low-traffic. Walking is the default mode for the centre and I always encourage families to build extra walking time into plans — the city rewards wandering.

Taxis in Oaxaca are affordable and generally reliable — agree the fare before getting in (most central journeys cost ~£1.50–3). Uber also operates in Oaxaca city and is sometimes more convenient for families as prices are confirmed in advance and there is no language negotiation. For trips to Monte Albán, asking your hotel to arrange a return taxi (with the driver waiting) is the most practical option. From the airport, authorised taxi desks inside arrivals are the safest choice.

Shared minibuses called collectivos connect the city to surrounding villages including Teotitlán del Valle, San Bartolo Coyotepec and other craft destinations — they are very cheap and used constantly by locals. Collectivos depart from fixed stops (the main one for valley villages is near the second periférico). They are perfectly safe and a great way to travel like a local, but require knowing which vehicle to board; a quick question to your hotel will confirm the right stop and route.

For Monte Albán, Hierve el Agua, and mezcal village tours, organised minibus day trips booked through hotels or local agencies are the most straightforward family option — they handle logistics, include a guide and typically cost ~£15–25 per person. This is often better value than hiring a private driver for a full day, and the guides add significant context that makes the experience richer for children and teenagers alike.

I recommend five to seven days for a family visit. Three days covers the city centre sights — Monte Albán, Santo Domingo, the markets and the zócalo. The additional days allow for a craft village loop, Hierve el Agua and a mezcal distillery visit without feeling rushed. Oaxaca rewards a slower pace; the families who come for a week always tell me they could have stayed longer.

Monte Albán consistently surprises families — teenagers who are indifferent to history at home often find themselves genuinely absorbed here. The scale of the site, the panoramic views across three valleys and the astronomical features (especially Building J) create a sense of discovery rather than duty. Pairing it with a guide who can explain the Zapotec civilisation in accessible terms makes a real difference. I would call it the unmissable activity of the trip for families with older children.

The Historic Centre and main tourist areas are considered safe for families, with a busy, well-monitored public atmosphere particularly around the zócalo and the Alcalá corridor. Oaxaca City itself has a much calmer security profile than Mexico's northern border cities or parts of Mexico City. Apply standard city precautions — keep valuables secure, use reliable transport, avoid poorly lit areas at night — and most families travel here without incident.

Late October through early December and February through April are the sweet spots: dry weather, warm days and manageable crowds. Early November brings the Día de los Muertos celebrations in the cemeteries and streets — one of the most extraordinary cultural events in Latin America and deeply appropriate for families. If you can visit for the last two Mondays of July, the Guelaguetza indigenous festival is spectacular, though the city fills up significantly and hotels should be booked months ahead.

Some Spanish is helpful in Oaxaca, particularly in markets and when taking collectivos. In the main tourist restaurants, museums and tour operations, English is widely spoken. Basic market Spanish — greetings, numbers, please and thank you — is genuinely appreciated and adds warmth to interactions. A translation app on your phone covers most situations. Teenagers often find this a low-pressure way to practise Spanish in real situations.

The simplest family option is an organised minibus tour departing from the city centre, typically costing around £10–15 per person for return transport plus a guide — these run every morning and many hotels can book them. Alternatively, authorised taxis from the city centre negotiate a return fare with waiting time; ask your hotel to arrange this and confirm the return wait time in advance. There is no public bus to the site. The drive from the city centre takes around 20–25 minutes.

Oaxaca is genuinely affordable by international standards. A mid-range family budget of around £70–100 per day covers comfortable accommodation for a family room, meals (mixing market lunches with sit-down dinners), entrance fees and local transport. Monte Albán entrance, mezcal tours and craft village day trips add roughly £15–25 per person per excursion. Budget families eating primarily at markets and collectivising all transport can live very well on considerably less.

The gateway is Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX), located about 8 km south of the city centre — roughly 20 minutes by taxi. There are no direct flights from the UK; from London you will connect through Mexico City (MEX) or, less frequently, via US hubs such as Houston, Dallas or Miami. Expect a total journey time of 14–18 hours from London depending on your connection. Return fares from London typically range from ~£600–£900 per person in economy during mid-season; book at least 3–4 months ahead for the best availability on the MEX–OAX segment, as domestic Mexican routes sell out. From Mexico City, the onward domestic flight to Oaxaca takes around 50 minutes.

An alternative to flying the final leg is the overnight bus from Mexico City's TAPO terminal — first-class services (ADO or Autobuses del Oriente) take around 6–7 hours and are comfortable, air-conditioned and popular with Mexican families. This is a viable option if you have time and want to see more of the countryside, or if you are travelling during a period when domestic flights are fully booked. Not recommended as the primary route for families with young children given the journey length, but perfectly manageable for families with teens.