One day
Start on the Great Market Square with the pink Town Hall and its fan staircase, the arcades and the colourful Armenian houses. Walk the ideal-city grid to the cathedral, the Zamoyski palace and the smaller Salt and Water squares, then circle the star-fort bastions and gates and the Arsenal museum. Have a pierogi lunch under the arcades, and end with the quiet, lit square at dusk. With time, visit the sombre Rotunda memorial.