One day
Begin at the Citadel for the fortress and the view over the Old City, then descend into Al-Madina Souq for the covered market, the khans and the Great Umayyad Mosque. Spend the afternoon in Al-Jdeideh among the courtyard mansions and churches, ending with Aleppan food — kibbeh, kebab karaz and muhammara. (Access to individual sites must be checked against current advice.)