One day
Start on the Plaza 25 de Mayo with the Cathedral and the Casa de la Libertad for the story of independence, then wander the white colonial centre and its churches (climb San Felipe Neri's rooftop). Have a salteña-and-market lunch, visit the ASUR textile museum, and climb to La Recoleta in the afternoon for the viewpoint over the white city and a café terrace. End with dinner and a singani on or near the plaza.