One day
Cross the isthmus past the ancient walls and windmill, and spend the morning tracing the peninsula's Byzantine churches — Christ Pantocrator, St Stephen, the sea-perched St John Aliturgetos — and the timber Revival houses, with the archaeological museum. Have a fresh-fish-and-shopska lunch at the harbour, swim at the South Beach or a peninsula cove in the afternoon, and return for the quiet, lit old town at dusk.