Ecuador
Coast-and-cordillera cooking — tangy seafood ceviche below, roast pork and potatoes above, world-class cacao throughout.
Ecuador changes what it feeds you as you climb. On the humid coast it's ceviche — shrimp or fish cured in citrus, served with crunchy plantain chips and popcorn — and encebollado, a tomato-rich fish soup that doubles as the morning-after cure. Climb into the Andes and the pantry turns to potatoes and corn: at a highland market you carve straight off the hornado, a whole pig slow-roasted until the skin shatters.
The sierra's everyday plate is llapingachos, cheese-stuffed potato patties tinted with achiote and served with chorizo, egg, avocado and peanut sauce; the boldest is cuy, whole roast guinea pig, a dish that predates the Spanish by centuries. The Amazon adds river fish and jungle fruit, and the whole country grows fine 'Arriba' cacao. Warm up at altitude with canelazo, a hot cinnamon-and-cane-spirit cup passed round at highland festivals.
- Ceviche (citrus-cured seafood)
- Encebollado (fish & yuca soup)
- Hornado (slow-roast pork)
- Llapingachos (cheese potato patties)
- Cuy (roast guinea pig)
- Locro de papa (potato-cheese soup)
- Canelazo (hot cinnamon-spirit drink)