One day
Arrive early, before the coaches, and take in the towers from the valley approach. Walk Via San Giovanni to Piazza della Cisterna and the Piazza del Duomo, see the frescoed Collegiata, and climb the Torre Grossa for the skyline view. Taste Vernaccia and have a pici lunch, wander the artisan shops on Via San Matteo, and walk up to the Rocca for the sunset over the vineyards — then dinner and the floodlit, emptied town.