One day
Come on a Monday. Spend the morning at the market in the square before the Great Mosque, taking in the great earthen building and its torons and towers, then walk the old town's mud-brick lanes past the ornamented Toucouleur houses and the Koranic schools. End at the Bani River among the Bozo fishing community, and — if it can be reached — the ancient mounds of Djenné-Djeno. (Access must be checked against current advice.)