The cradle of the nation — Guimarães is where Portugal began, and its founding monuments are the highlight — the hilltop castle, whose keep towers over the town, where by tradition Afonso Henriques, the first king, was born; the little Romanesque church of São Miguel where he was reputedly baptised; and, beside them, the grand Palace of the Dukes of Braganza, a 15th-century palace (heavily restored) with grand halls and tapestries. An old wall nearby proudly reads "Aqui nasceu Portugal." Touring the castle and palace, you walk through the birth of a country.
The medieval squares — Below the castle, Guimarães's old town is a delight — a compact maze of granite streets and squares that are among the most beautiful in Portugal. The Largo da Oliveira, with its Gothic canopy-shrine and the Church of Our Lady of the Olive Tree, and the arcaded Praça de São Tiago, ringed by iron-balconied houses and café tables, are the loveliest; the Rua de Santa Maria links them. Wander the lanes, take a coffee or a vinho verde on a square, and soak up the atmosphere of a genuine, lived-in medieval town.
Up the mountain to Penha — Rising above the town is Penha, a wooded granite mountain reached by a cable car (teleférico) from the edge of the centre — at the top, a monumental hilltop sanctuary, gardens among giant boulders and caves, and sweeping views over Guimarães and the green Minho countryside. It's a lovely, easy escape from the old town, especially on a clear day. Ride up for the panorama and the sanctuary, and walk among the boulders. It's the natural counterpoint to the historic centre.
Student life and Minho flavours — Guimarães is a university town, and that gives its old-town squares a youthful, lively energy — cafés, bars and a good nightlife woven among the medieval stone. The food is hearty Minho-northern — bacalhau (salt cod) in many forms, rojões (fried pork), caldo verde (kale-and-potato soup), and the local sweet tortas de Guimarães, all with the region's crisp, faintly fizzy vinho verde. Eat in the old-town tascas and restaurants, and settle into a square for the evening.