One day
Start in the Plaza Mayor with a coffee under the arcades, then walk to the Casa de las Conchas and the towered La Clerecía. Spend the late morning at the University — hunting the frog on the façade — and the two cathedrals, climbing the Ieronimus tower for the roofs. Lunch on tapas in a student bar, wander the carved streets and San Esteban in the afternoon, then cross the Roman bridge for the golden-skyline sunset and a late tapas crawl.