Turkey
Eight o'clock at Aspendos, 45 km east of Antalya: the gates open, the Roman theatre is empty, and the arches of a kilometre-long aqueduct bridge cross the plain beyond.
Antalya's coast runs from Kemer, under the mountains, to Alanya, under its castle. In between are a walled old town, Roman ruins as well kept as any in the Mediterranean, and long strips of all-inclusive hotels. Summers are very hot. Spring and autumn are better for seeing it all.
Antalya is both a city and a province on Türkiye's Mediterranean coast. The city grew around a sheltered harbour, named Attaleia in the 2nd century BC, and its walled old town, Kaleiçi, still wraps around it. West of the city, Konyaaltı beach runs towards the Beydağları mountains, and the coast road continues to Kemer, Phaselis, Olympos and the Tahtalı cable car. East of the city, the hotels of Lara and Belek line the shore. Inland, on the plain, are Perge and Aspendos. Further east come Side, on its peninsula of ruins, and Alanya, under a castle on a rocky headland. The province has two airports: Antalya (AYT) for almost everything, and the smaller Gazipaşa-Alanya (GZP) beyond Alanya.
Few beach holidays put this much history within a short drive of the sunbed. From a Lara or Belek hotel you can be at the Aspendos theatre when it opens, and in Side the ruins run right through the town. The flight is about four hours, and visitors pay entry in euros, so it's easy to budget for days out: Perge is EUR 11, Aspendos EUR 15. Spring and autumn are the times to come for both. In May the average high is 25.7°C, in October 26.6°C. In July and August it's 34°C, which is fine by a pool but hard work in a ruin.
The sub-zones of Antalya and the Turkish Riviera — where each cluster sits and who it suits.
Antalya's walled old town around the Roman harbour, about 3,000 tile-roofed houses inside walls built from Hellenistic to Ottoman times. You enter through Hadrian's Gate.
The city's western seafront: a pebble beach of about 7 km running from the cliffs to the Beydağları mountains.
The hotel coast east of the city, on a long, wide beach of fine sand also called Altınkum. Lower Düden falls into the sea here.
A purpose-built resort area in the Serik district, lined with large hotels and golf courses.
A resort town built over an ancient port on a peninsula about 80 km east of Antalya. Selimiye village sits on the ruins.
A big resort town under a castle on a rocky headland, with sandy beaches on both sides.
A resort and marina south-west of Antalya, between the Beydağları mountains and the sea.
Order Antalya piyazı first. It isn't the side-salad piyaz you get elsewhere in Türkiye but a main course of dry beans in tarator sauce, and it's a registered Geographic Indication. Then try şiş köfte, minced meat and salt grilled on skewers over charcoal and served on warm pitta with cumin, tomato and baked onion. At a fish restaurant, ask for lagos (grida), baked whole in salt. Inland, the Yörük kebab of the Toros highlands is meat and vegetables with mountain spices. For pudding there's burnt ice cream made from goat's milk. The province grows oranges, and the seedless Finike orange is protected too. You'll also find jam made from the peel.
Grilled meat and fish lead most menus, but piyaz is a meat-free main, and beans, vegetables and olive oil turn up throughout. In all-inclusive hotels you'll find plenty of choice. In small local restaurants, ask how a dish is made. For coeliac or other strict diets, contact your hotel or restaurant before you go.
Choose between the city and a resort first. Kaleiçi and Konyaaltı put you in Antalya itself, with trams, the old town and a city beach. Lara and Belek are long strips of large, mostly all-inclusive hotels east of the city. Side and Alanya are real towns with ruins and a castle, but they are a long transfer east. Kemer, to the south-west, has mountains behind it and the best access to Phaselis, Olympos and Tahtalı.
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Inside Antalya city, public transport is run by Antalya Ulaşım: the AntRay tram, the older Nostalji tram and the city buses, all paid with an Antalyakart. Under-sevens ride the Nostalji tram free with a parent. For Perge, Aspendos, Side, Phaselis and Köprülü Canyon, a hire car or a tour is far easier. To drive, you need a 1968 International Driving Permit (buy it in the UK before you go) or a notarised Turkish translation of your licence, plus a green card for insurance. Accidents are common, so take care at night. If you drink and drive you can be fined and lose your licence for six months. Use registered, metered taxis.
The Nostalji tram runs between its two end stops, Müze and Zerdalilik. The AntRay light rail has three stages across the city. Antalya Ulaşım publishes the route map and timetables, so check them for your stop. Both trams and the city buses take the Antalyakart, which you top up at machines and card centres. From the airport, buses run to the city centre and beyond. Ask at the airport for the line to your area, because neither the airport nor Antalya Ulaşım lists line numbers online. For the resorts and ruins east and west of the city, most visitors use a transfer, a tour or a hire car.
Ready-made day plans for Antalya and the Turkish Riviera — from a single day to a long weekend.
Start in Kaleiçi: walk in through Hadrian's Gate, past the Yivli Minare to the old harbour, then take a boat along the cliffs to Lower Düden, where the river drops 40 metres into the sea. In the afternoon, go to Perge, about 18 km east (open until 17:00, last tickets 16:30), and end at Lara Beach.
Head east. See the Aspendos theatre when it opens at 08:00, before the heat. Drive on to Side for the colonnaded street, the Side Museum and the Temple of Apollo at sunset. If you have a car, Köprülü Canyon is a turn inland past Serik for rafting on the Köprüçay.
Go south-west to Kemer. Walk Phaselis and its three harbours in the morning, then ride the Tahtalı cable car to 2,365 metres. Finish at Olympos (open until 19:00) and the pebble beach at Çıralı.
The 2 shores actually worth the trip on Antalya and the Turkish Riviera — ranked, with the vibe of each and where to stay nearby. Tap a card to fly the map to it.
Fine golden sand curving beneath Alanya's castle, busy with sunbeds, cafes and warm swimmable sea.
Best for lively town beach
Sunset © Murat Esgin (Esginmurat) / CC BY-SA 4.0 A long pebble shore under the Beydağları peaks that glow gold at dusk, lined with bars and cafes.
Best for mountain-backed sunsets
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View & book →Day-by-day itineraries that take in Antalya and the Turkish Riviera — routes, timings and what to book.
13 Nights Experience the ultimate introduction to Turkey on an expansive two-week self-drive journey connecting historic empires, volcanic valleys, and dramatic Mediterranean shores. This route transitions seamlessly from Istanbul's bustling bazaars and grand mosques to Cappadocia's balloon-filled skies, underground antiquities, and the sun-drenched ancient ruins of the southern coast.
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View tripApril to June and September to October
Units
What to expect — March to May warms quickly. Average highs go from 18°C in March to 26°C in May, and rain drops from about 90 mm in March to 33 mm in May.
What's best — Ancient sites, walking and the Lycian Way before the heat.
What to expect — Hot and almost dry. Average highs are 34°C in July and 34°C in August, with about half a rain day a month, and the record is 45°C. Wildfires are a summer risk.
What's best — Sea and pool days; see ruins at opening time, and the Aspendos festival in September.
What to expect — September is still hot at 31°C, October a more comfortable 27°C. Rain returns in November (about 128 mm), when highs fall to 21°C.
What's best — Warm sea days with cooler sightseeing; film and culture festivals in October and November.
What to expect — Mild but wet. Average highs are 15 to 17°C from December to February, and December and January are the wettest months, with about 225-250 mm of rain on 12 days.
What's best — Ruins without crowds or heat, on the dry days between fronts.
Follow the FCDO's Turkey entry rules. You can visit without a visa for up to 90 days in any 180.
Your passport must have an expiry date at least 150 days after you arrive, and at least one blank page.
You can't take Turkish lira worth more than 5,000 US dollars out of the country.
Your GHIC or EHIC is not valid in Turkey, so get travel insurance that covers treatment.
Turkish pharmacies won't accept a British prescription, and some common medicines are controlled. Check before you pack them.
Emergency number: 112.
Antalya Museum is closed to visitors. Check muze.gov.tr for its reopening.
Perge's theatre is closed for restoration, and the ministry's price list says Side's theatre is closed.
Most sites open 08:00-17:00 with last tickets at 16:30. Olympos stays open until 19:00.
The MüzeKart is for Turkish citizens. Visitors pay in euros or buy the 7-day MuseumPass The Mediterranean.
A red flag means you must not go in the water, and some beaches have strong undercurrents. Don't dive into water you don't know.
July and August average 34°C. Plan ruins for the morning.
Lighting a fire or dropping a cigarette in woodland can lead to a fine or prison.
UK flights arrive at Antalya Airport (AYT), north-east of the city. TUI puts the flight at about four hours from Gatwick and up to four and a half from other UK airports. International flights use Terminal 2, and a free shuttle links the terminals. The city centre is about 20 minutes by car along the D400. Taxis wait outside arrivals: drivers carry airport ID, and a fare board stands next to the rank. Buses also run to the centre and further along the coast. For Alanya, the smaller Gazipaşa-Alanya airport (GZP) is closer, but check your airline flies there. Türkiye is on GMT+3 all year, so it's two hours ahead of the UK in summer and three in winter.
Flights, airport transfers and car hire to AYT — search and compare without leaving the page.
