The Old Bridge — Mostar's soul is the Stari Most, a single graceful Ottoman stone arch that leaps high over the turquoise Neretva — one of the great sights of the Balkans, and one of the most meaningful. Built in the 16th century, it stood for over 400 years until it was destroyed in the 1990s war; its careful rebuilding, using the old techniques and stone, made it a symbol of reconciliation. Walk its steep, slippery span, take in the classic view from the banks, and stay for the bridge divers, who plunge from its parapet into the cold river below (a local tradition, and now a paid show). The bridge is beautiful, and it carries a heavy, hopeful weight.
**The Ottoman bazaar** — Around the bridge, the restored old town is a delight — the cobbled Kujundžiluk bazaar, its lanes lined with coppersmiths hammering, craft and souvenir shops, cafés and stone houses, among the minarets of the mosques. Climb the minaret of the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque for the postcard view of the bridge and the river, browse the copper and crafts, and take a Bosnian coffee in the bazaar. It's touristy but genuinely atmospheric, especially in the early morning and evening once the day crowds thin.
**History, division and reconciliation** — Mostar is also a place to understand the recent past. The town was a front line in the Bosnian War of the 1990s, and though the tourist core is restored, the scars remain visible — bullet-pocked and ruined buildings, memorials — and the city is still, in ways, divided between its Bosniak (Muslim) and Croat (Catholic) communities. Engaging with this history — thoughtfully, respectfully — is part of a meaningful visit. The rebuilt bridge is the symbol of hope; the wider town is the sober, complicated reality. It gives Mostar a depth beyond its beauty.
**Bosnian food and Herzegovina** — Mostar eats Bosnian, an Ottoman-influenced, hearty cuisine — ćevapi (grilled minced-meat fingers with flatbread and onion), burek and other savoury pies, dolma and japrak (stuffed vegetables and leaves), grilled meats, and the ritual of thick Bosnian coffee served with rahat lokum and sugar. Baklava and other syrupy sweets, and rakija, round it out. And Mostar is the base for Herzegovina's wonders — the serene dervish house at Blagaj, the Ottoman village of Počitelj, and the tiered Kravice waterfalls. Eat ćevapi and take a Bosnian coffee, and get out to the beautiful surroundings.