Regions and cities
Sarajevo, the capital, is the cultural heart, with its Baščaršija bazaar, Ottoman mosques, Habsburg-era streets and museums. Mostar, in Herzegovina to the south, is known for its rebuilt Old Bridge over the Neretva, and nearby are the Blagaj tekke at the source of the Buna and waterfalls such as Kravice. In the north-west, Una National Park spreads over about 19,800 hectares around Bihać, with waterfalls and river valleys. In the south-east, Sutjeska National Park covers more than 17,000 hectares, including the Perućica primeval forest, the Maglić, Volujak and Zelengora mountains and eight glacial lakes.
Swap it: Dubrovnik's walls for Mostar's Old Bridge and Sarajevo's bazaar. You get Ottoman streets, a coffee culture and a lower bill than we would expect on Croatia's best-known stretch, with far fewer crowds outside the day-trip hours. You give up the Adriatic coast, easy flights and ferries and the polish of a tourism machine, and you will plan longer drives. Mostar draws day-trippers, so we would stay a night.