Baščaršija, Sarajevo

Baščaršija is the Ottoman bazaar at the heart of Sarajevo, a quarter of coppersmiths, cafés and mosques centred on the wooden Sebilj fountain. Walk a few minutes west and the architecture turns Habsburg, which is the best way to understand the city.

It is a good place for coffee served in a copper pot, ćevapi and a slow wander, and we would give it a morning followed by a long lunch. The FCDO notes pickpockets and bag-snatchers in Sarajevo, so keep bags zipped in the busiest lanes. The city also has museums that explain the 1990s siege; we would go with time and care, and leave room in the day afterwards.