Ohrid Old Town and Samuel's Fortress

Ohrid's old quarter climbs from the lakeshore through stone lanes, Ottoman houses and small churches to a hilltop fortress with views over the lake. It is the cultural centre of the lake region and easy to explore on foot.

The fortress walls are a good early-morning or evening walk, when the stone is cooler and the light is soft. The lanes below fill with visitors in July and August, so we would arrive early and keep a quiet table for later. Expect cobbles and steps, and note that church opening hours vary, so ask locally on the day.