Dress
Qatar asks visitors to dress modestly in public. Both the FCDO and Visit Qatar advise men and women to cover their shoulders and knees. The FCDO says the rule is strictly enforced in government buildings, healthcare facilities and banks. Swimwear is for the beach or pool, and museums publish their own dress codes.
Ramadan
Ramadan moves about 11 days earlier each year, so check the dates for your trip. During daylight hours, visitors are expected not to eat, drink or smoke in public. Hotels keep restaurants open out of public view. Evenings come alive after sunset. Eid al-Fitr marks the end of the month, and many businesses close for three days.
Alcohol
Alcohol is legal but limited. The FCDO says only licensed hotels, restaurants and bars can sell it, and they will ask for your original photo ID (copies are not accepted). Residents buy it on a permit system, which is not open to visitors. Drinking or being drunk in public is illegal, with up to six months in prison or a fine of up to QAR 3,000. There is zero tolerance for drink-driving.
Behaviour in public
The FCDO says any intimacy in public can lead to arrest, and that covers all couples. Ask before you photograph anyone: taking or sharing images of people without consent can lead to prison, and drones are regulated. Swearing and rude gestures count as obscene acts. Vaping is illegal, smoking is banned in public places, and drug laws are zero-tolerance. Same-sex relations are illegal. Some Qataris don't shake hands with the opposite sex, so wait for a hand to be offered.
The weekend
Qatar's weekend is Friday and Saturday. Embassies and government offices open Sunday to Thursday. On Friday mornings, business stops for prayers between about 10am and noon. Malls open in the afternoon, and the Museum of Islamic Art and the National Museum don't open until 1.30pm.
Food and drink
Visit Qatar names machboos as the national dish. We'd also look out for saloona, a tomato stew spiced with cardamom, ginger and black loomi, and margoog, a lamb and vegetable stew cooked with discs of wholewheat dough. In Doha, eat in the courtyards of Souq Waqif, then buy saffron and coffee beans in its spice lanes. In Lusail, the Marina Food Arena gathers about 65 food trucks, cafés and street stalls. At the Museum of Islamic Art, IDAM by Alain Ducasse cooks on the fifth floor. For a gentler introduction to Qatari hospitality, Fanar, across the road from the souq, runs Qatari majlis sessions.